The Calanque De Callelongue

Callelongue
Marseille
Marseille & Aix en Provence
France

Type: Other
Addmission Fee: Euro 4.50

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On its eastern edge, Marseille comes to an abrupt end at the Marseilleveyre, a massif of vertical limestone peaks and needles that rise up around the Calanque de Callelongue. We could see it from the roof of our hotel, but from a distance it merged with other hills and peaks. When our innkeeper described it as being “another world, like being on the moon” we thought he was exaggerating. He wasn’t. What really recommends this beautiful, rugged landscape, is that it is less than half an hour from the center of Marseille and it has a charming restaurant where you can break up a day’s gentle hiking and hill walking. Buy a day travel pass euro 4.50 and take the Number 19 bus to Goude at the end of the line. Try to time the 20-minute bus ride to arrive a little before the hour. The Number 20 bus, which takes you the 10 minutes further to Callelongue, leaves hourly and if you miss it, there’s not much to do or see in Goude. The Calanque of Callelongue is a miniscule working harbor, crammed with pointus, traditional fishing boats. A few pastel summer houses, known locally as cabanons, and a deceptively casual looking restaurant, called the Bar Restaurant Pizzeria de la Grotte, make up the entire hamlet. The two cave-riddled peaks of the Marseilleveyre, Rochers de St. Michel and the Rochers des Goudes, wrap themselves around it like a fortress. They rise nearly vertically, for about 1,000 feet. In the hills below them, several well-marked and -maintained trails, including the famous GR51 the Balcon du Côte d’Azur blazed in red and white, and local paths blazed in black and yellow criss-cross. Paths and trails begin just beyond the end of Callelongue’s one short street. A trail map is posted about 50 feet up and to the right of the head of the little harbor. Consult the map, reserve a table for lunch and head out. The trails are easy here but paved with rough, loose limestone, so good walking shoes are essential. The views are spectacular amid pines, rock roses and rosemary. Bring a camera.