Sightseeing in the Skagen Area

Driving up to Skagen is a sightseeing tour in itself. After you’ve passed Fredrikshavn, you will enter an area unlike any other in Denmark. This unique environment, with the moorland and sandy dunes, gives a feeling of being in a different country. Before you get to Skagen you will pass the old fishing village of Aalbæk about halfway between Fredrikshavn and Skagen. Aalbæk has a small harbor and was for centuries a popular stop for visitors on their way to Skagen. They often grabbed a bite to eat at the local inn, which is still there today.

The Skagen area is divided into two parts, the city of Skagen itself, which is on the east coast, and the village known as Gammel Skagen (often abbreviated Gl. Skagen) on the west coast just across from Skagen. Gammel means old in Danish but the village itself, although picturesque and charming, is quite modern, dominated by luxury hotels and expensive restaurants. Gl. Skagen is more tranquil than Skagen and has become a health resort, with spas in many of the hotels. Some say that Gl. Skagen is the most beautiful part of Skagen, and when the sun sets in the evenings, it would be hard to argue with that. A sunset on the west coast with the sea in the foreground is undoubtedly prettier.

The village called Skagen, however, is the “real” Skagen. This is where the famous harbor is, which is quite big for such a small village. The port may not be as busy as Copenhagen or Århus in terms of transported goods, but Skagen actually brings in more fish to its harbor than any other port in Denmark. Walking around in the harbor area is a must when you’re here. Even if you are not an early riser, you should try to get there in time for the fish auction, which takes place every weekday morning at 6:30 (lobster) and 7 (fish), usually drawing a pretty big crowd. Whether you come to buy your own fish or just watch others bid, it’s a fun experience.

Tilsandede Kirke

The interesting looking church known as Tilsandede Kirke (roughly translated “the sandy church”) was probably built in the 14th century and was the main church in Skagen for several centuries. It now consists of a tower only, since it stood in the way of the great sand migration which started in the 16th century. Eventually the congregation couldn’t get into the church because of all the sand and in 1795 it had to close down, by orders of the king. To get to the church from Skagen, take Gl. Landesvej, which is the old road toward Fredrikshavn running parallel to today’s main road. Turn left after about two km where the sign indicates, park the car at a parking lot and walk the last 500 m (1,500 feet).

The Migrating Desert

Råbjerg Mile is the name of the migrating desert area just south of Skagen. It was created sometime in the 16th century when the strong winds of the North Sea tore down much of the vegetation and started pushing the sand inland from the shore. Råbjerg Mile moves at a rate of 15-20m(45-60 feet) per year to the northeast and you can still see tracks from its movements as far back as Råbjerg Stene (the Råbjerg Stones) a few km southwest of the desert. To get to Råbjerg Mile, take Kandestedvej from Road 40 between Skagen and Aalbæk.