Costa Blanca

Costa Blanca, or the “White Coast,” is not as ruined as the Costa del Sol to the south, but almost, and not as cool as the Costa Brava to the north, but almost. This 212-km (131-mile) swath of the Mediterranean runs along the southern Valencian province of Alicante. It has a characteristic geographical diversity of sandy beaches and by limestone cliffs interrupted by dunes and marshes, rocky coves and inlets. The tourist boom of the 1960s and ’70s all but raped and pillaged this coast so that now there is little to show of its beauty that is not hidden away by tasteless high-rises and bland summer neighborhoods.

Denia

The Costa Blanca begins in the north with the town of Denia, an early Roman city dedicated to the goddess Diana. It sits atop the Montgó mountain range, and is crowned by a Moorish castle. The water in this area is generally placid, washing its beaches that start with fine sand in the north before giving way to stone beaches and cliff faces to the south.

Jávea and Altea

The towns of Jávea, which is now experiencing the type of growth the rest of the coast already has, and the artists’ enclave of Altea preserve their small and charming old neighborhoods. Of the former, its Arenal Beach is known as the “dawn of Spain” because it is here that the rising sun first lights the country. Altea is a former fishing village and still feels the part, with whitewashed homes topped by blue ceramic tiled domes glistening, soothing in the sun.

Calpe

South still - in fact, only a short drive from Denia - is the fishing port of Calpe, where the limestone rock Penyal d’Ifach rises over 322 m connected to the town by a narrow isthmus. This natural park was referred to by the Phoenicians as the rock of Ifach, or northern rock, to distinguish it from the rock of Gibraltar, of similar appearance on the southern coast. It is an important nesting ground for sea birds and site of a nature school that studies the endemic cliff plants, junipers and palms. A zig-zagging trail can be climbed to admire the impressive views of the coast from on high.

Benidorm

And then there is Benidorm, the reigning capital of all-inclusive holiday vacation packages on the Mediterranean coast. If it weren’t for the city’s overwhelming popularity with an aging set of British and Germans (over 300,000 each season), it would not even warrant mention. In fact, it still doesn’t. To enjoy the least affected of the Costa Brava’s beaches, the choice could be either Torrevieja or the sand dunes of Gaurdamar. Nonetheless, Benidorm has the most extensive possibilities for water tourism, from sea kayaking to jet skiing, sailing and glass-bottom boat tours. The bulk of their business is based around 4x4 safaris, which they make in the surrounding mountains of Aitana. The daylong trip, including lunch, costs 60i. Be forewarned, the all-terrain vehicles are Suzuki Sidekicks, but with groups piled into four or five cars, it makes for a fun, conversational and picturesque trip through the sandy peaks with high views of the ocean and meandering rivers. They also arrange four-wheeler off-road trips and charter a 10-person sailboat for the day or longer periods.

Alicante

Alicante, the capital of the so-named province and second- largest city in the Valencia region, is a seaside port town dating to the fourth century BC when the Iberians founded the city of Tossal de Manises. In the eighth century the Moors took control and built their fortress, El Castillo de Santa Bárbara, on the summit of Mount Benacantil overlooking the city. Rebuilt during the reign of Felipe II, it consists of several terraced levels corresponding to the contours of the rise. At the top are the remains of the medieval castle and prime views over the city, while below are the walls and towers of la Torreta. There is an interesting open-air display of twisted dark sculptures within the castle, the works of a handful of prominent Spanish artists such as Dalí, Serrano and Macho.

Action in town centers on the Explenada de España, a waterfront promenade lined with palm trees that separates the port and beach of El Postiguet from the town. The oldest quarter of the city, known simply as the Barrio, is gray with pockets of colorful architecture and winding, narrow streets at the foot of Benacantil hill. Within, the Plaza del Ayuntamiento is crowded with revelers on weekend nights. On the bottom step leading up to the 18th-century town hall is an engraved disc, at a height of 3.4 m (11 feet) above sea level, marking the point from which all altitudes in Spain are measured. This point was chosen because the tide rarely fluctuates in Alicante.

The 17th-century Renaissance Catedral de San Nicolás was designed by students of renowned Spanish architect Juan de Herrera in an unadorned style. It is an old sight, but far from spectacular. Next to the Iglesia de Santa Maria, a Gothic construct raised on the site of an Arab mosque in the 14th century, is the Casa de La Asegurada, a former granary that now houses a valuable private collection of 20th-century artwork. Contributors include Eusebio Sempere, who owns the collection, as well as Picasso, Dalí, Chillida and Miró.